Bhutan

Analyzing the Costs of Bhutanese Textiles

A study to understand why Bhutanese hand woven textiles have not fared well and are less competitive in the non-traditional markets cites that the lack of knowledge on marketing textiles internationally; and the high costs and poor quality of the textiles as some of the underlying factors restricting the marketing potential of Bhutanese textiles. The study includes an analysis of the various production stages and proposes recommendations to help relevant stakeholders to better understand and take the required actions needed to lower the cost and make the production of hand-woven textiles in Bhutan more competitive.

Jointly conducted by the Handicraft Association of Bhutan and the Pheang Mai Gallery in Laos, and supported through the joint UN project, “Promotion of Culture-based Creative Industry for Poverty Reduction and Community Vitalization,” the study undertook a comparative analysis of the production process and a cost analysis based on silk scarves produced in Bhutan by an individual weaver, a handicraft company and a weaving centre; and by a weaving centre in Laos.

The comparative analysis of the scarves show that Bhutanese hand-woven textiles, on the average is about 40% more expensive than a similar product produced in Laos due to the unsuitability of the Bhutanese back-strap looms for large scale commercial production of handwoven textiles; the high costs of materials (yarns, dyes); lack of uniformity in the products; absence of value and supply chains; lack of proper knowledge in dyeing techniques; lack of knowledge in yarn qualities; and the absence of a systematic method of pricing final products.

However, the study recognizes the extensive potential Bhutanese textiles poses as a means of income generation, especially for women. The flexibility of the Bhutanese textile industry ensures that it is more community based both in the physical and cognitive sense. It acknowledges that the contribution of this industry exceeds far beyond economic benefits as it also enriches the identity of the communities and the producers. In addition, the study also acknowledges that a holistic approach is needed if the Bhutanese textile industry is to be transformed from a supplementary income generation activity into a more structured commercially based industrial activity. This is recommended to be done together with technological and skills interventions, and modes of production, changes in perceptions supported by academia, long term planning and policy support. Complete transformation of the sector would include the artisans, weavers and other stakeholders stepping out of their usual realm by cultivating an entrepreneurial spirit.

The findings of the study were presented by Ms Kongthong Nanthavongdouangsy of Phaeng Mai Gallery of Laos on 4th June 2008.

Ms Kongthong is an internationally renowned Master Weaver from Laos involved in a numerous hand-woven textile projects in Laos and in the region. In 1992, Ms Kongthong won the UNESCO Craft Prize for Asia.